Portugal: From Lisbon's Historic Charms to Algarve's Enchanting Caves

Part 1: Lisbon

We eagerly began our month-long adventure by leaving from SFO on a 13-hour flight to Lisbon. After a lethargic start, we ate some great food at Zenith Cafe. I ordered the signature Oreo pancakes, which melted in my mouth, and the Oreo ice cream on top was a perfect addition. We also tried the most popular baked item in Portugal, the Pastel de Nata (custard tart). In the evening, we took a tuk-tuk around the city to see its biggest sites, such as the Cathedral of Lisbon, which had medieval architecture and beautiful statues inside. Later that night, we unexpectedly met our friends from the Bay Area and joined them for dinner at Solar 753. During the dinner, a Euro semi-final game between Portugal and France was on, and the energy was electric. Though Portugal sadly lost in penalties, the city was still buzzing with music. The food, mostly ham and pork, wasn't amazing, but the reunion was the highlight of the night.

The morning began with a traditional Portuguese breakfast with pastels, coffee, and fresh-squeezed orange juice. After demolishing breakfast, we headed to Castelo Sao Jorge, the castle overlooking the whole city. The castle had 500-year-old cannons and watchtowers and was also home to some peacocks, adding life to the old structure. Debating our next move, we asked some locals who recommended the Tower of Belem and Jeronimos' Monastery, located 20 minutes from downtown. The monastery was mind-blowing, with architecture inspired by many countries, blending harmoniously. The next day awaited us in Sintra, a town hidden in the mountains 30 minutes away. Let's see what waits for us there...

Part 2: Sintra and Cascais

The drive to Sintra was one of the most scenic of all time. The trees lined the Tagus River, offering picturesque sights like the Moorish Castle overlooking the town. Our hotel was located on the top of a mountain, making it cold, foggy, and windy. As expected, our room wasn’t ready for a few hours.

Sintra was visited for one primary place: Quinta da Regaleira. This estate is renowned for its romantic architecture, enigmatic symbolism, and, most notably, its initiation well. The initiation well is a mysterious, inverted tower that spirals deep into the earth. Walking down the well was like stepping into another world. The staircase, winding around the walls, descends in a spiral pattern through nine levels, believed to represent the nine circles of Dante's Inferno. The air was cool and damp, and the dim lighting added to the mystique. Each level revealed more intricate stonework, and the moss-covered walls made it feel ancient and secretive. At the bottom of the well, there was a stunning mosaic floor featuring a compass and a Templar cross, symbols often linked to the Knights Templar and Masonic rituals. It felt like a journey through time and myth.

Beneath the well were catacombs of unique rock formations, twisting tunnels, and hidden grottos. The darkness and echoing drips of water made exploring these tunnels feel like an adventure. We emerged from the underground labyrinth at a series of cave pools reminiscent of Cancun’s cenotes, where light filtered through the water, creating an ethereal glow. The rest of the castle, though impressive, seemed ordinary compared to the enchanting initiation well and its subterranean wonders. Satisfied with our exploration, we recharged for the next day.

Next, we visited Cascais, a coastal town that looked remarkably similar to Highway 1 in Half Moon Bay/Pacifica. We asked a local for a good place to eat, and he recommended Porta Santa Maria. Walking in, we could tell the seafood would be exceptional. We had a feast of baked red snapper in tomato sauce, garlic prawns, and calamari, all while looking out over the ocean. We reunited with our friends once more at the restaurant, sharing stories and laughter over the scrumptious meal.

After dinner, we headed to the beach, where I decided to take a dip in the water. The sub-zero temperature of the water froze my feet, making my bones feel nonfunctional. Despite the cold, my friends also hopped in, feeling the power of the icy water. As the night was still young, we returned to the hotel to rest in preparation for our adventurous drive down to the southern towns of Algarve.

Part 3: Algarve

Algarve. Where do I even begin? Let’s rewind…

The drive to Algarve was similar to Sintra, but longer at 2.5 hours. Most of the drive was on a main highway, and with everyone sleeping through most of it, it felt shorter. We reached there promptly, greeted by our hotel staff with ice-cold water while our dad checked in. As usual, our room wasn’t ready, so we ate lunch at the pool restaurant. The food was nothing special, but the private beach was something else. The 2-mile hike to the beach was worth it, showcasing rock formations that displayed the Earth's creation over 35 million years.

The concierge booked us a popular tourist destination in Algarve, Benagil Cave. Early the next morning, we sailed across the sea to see Benagil Cave and other caves and rocks Algarve is known for. The first cave, a submarine cave, was pitch dark inside, and a yellow rock shaped like a submarine inspired The Beatles' song, “The Yellow Submarine.” Crocodile Cave had a crocodile-shaped rock at the entrance and a secluded beach at the end. The Arc of Lovers, though not a cave, held a chapel on a neighboring cliff where marriages were held. The star of the show, Benagil Cave, had a hole at the top letting sunlight in, creating a guiding light in the darkness.

We also visited Lagos and Faro. Lagos' main beach, Praia Dona Ana, had a border of teal and dark blue water. The crowded beach and choppy water forced us to settle in a corner under a rock for shade. The weather and timing weren't on our side, so we left early. Faro, an hour away, was surprisingly empty with few open restaurants. After a quick meal, we explored the rusted cobble streets and an empty castle. With no one around and another Euro game barely watched, we left Faro without plans to return.

Our last day in Algarve was set aside to rest after our hectic trip. The next day marked the beginning of a new journey in Florence, Italy, as our dad returned to SF and my brother, mom, and I continued our adventure.